TEAM BANGHARD
I know what your saying already. An after reading whats up on the subject. Something had to be put up on this subject for those reading an building a box, tryying to understand an make sense of what is going on.
Starting out my season this year, I hadn't even heard of such thing an thought cause my amp said I wired it to 1 ohm I thought I was getting what the book said in power.... Which a lot of us know is far from wrong.
This subject is not hard to understand.. just takes a few other terms of understanding to understand it.
To keep this short i'm in the process of making a video so all can understand. I'll be posting it to my youtube account @ mikehoncho119.
PETES asked in his post for real world app. an I leave you with this till my video release.
What determines the box rise.... If your sub is free air an not in a box, HOW MUCH RESISTANCE/ FORCE IS BEING APPLIED BACK TO THE SPEAKER? VS A SEALED BOX..... Now take the sealed box an port it.... does the box lose resistance? YES.
Ill go further in to detail for all those that do not understand this an would like to before their build this season an get what they pay for out of these amps!!
1st Side note.. @ begining of year I started out getting 1800 watts from my amp not knowing what box rise is.. havent clamped yet after recent change of playing with wiring but up to 5250 watts now with same amp an believe on next build will finish with around 6500 on same amp.
2nd side note your books rating of rms is actually record in reactive ohms.. which equals =
wiring ohm load + box rise ohm = reactive ohm load
This is the real reason you can wire below whats rated with the wiring of the subs.. because everyone always forgets to add box rise... your amp never true sees wiring ohm load..only sees reactive ohm load.
please watch for the video to help fully understand an all the rest of the good information that will be given for you to help understand whats really happening on youtube under
mikehoncho119
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tekk45
If you haven't clamped since changing the wiring, how do you know you went from 1800 to 5250 watts? The reactive load of a speaker is highest at Fs, the Fs of the box and tuning frequency(which will vary with power). Also, not all amplifiers will tolerate running them too far below minimum rated impedence, even for burps. When building and testing keep notes on everything so you dont make the mistake of blowing up and amplifier. I recommend determining how low you can run an amplifier to achieve minimum rated inpedence after reactive load only AFTER you have dialed in the build to be as loud as possible at a safe impedence and know your total reactive load. Also know that the amount of power will, in some cases, alter reactive load higher of lower.

Team Neo - Eric
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Team DD Belgium - Dieter
I think it's wrong to focus on impedance rise. Yes, less rise means more power, and more power leads to a higher score, but like Eric is saying your rise will be higher at the Fs of your system wich will give you the best/efficient score.
so best is to test your box, measuring power and calculating effiency. Awterwards you have to adjust your coil setup to match your loudest boxdesign and the amps you are using.
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