loudvanman Show full post »
loudvanman
how would I go on if this screen was fitted inside the standard screen.
I still need to be able to drive this to shows so at the moment i will be keeping the origonal screen in place with this thicker screen fitted in a frame inside of the standard screen. and making it removable to drive to shows with and fit it when i get there

Taking note of the rule for a secondary windscreen also that states it must be 1/4" from the origonal screen in the middle. This is te rule i was thinking i would have to put it at an agle to follow the curve and keep it within 1/4" of the standard screen in the middle.

MOT rules in this country make it difficult to have vertical plates as it will obstruct the drivers view when in place.

I know its all a comprimise not fitting it correctly on the outside of the vehicles a Pillar but then i will need a large trailer and a powerfull tow truck too, so the cost just tripples, hence the reason to be able to drive it.

I've been looking at plexi glass and lexan to make a secondry screen but this glass came along which was already cut to size to makee it fit within the A Pillar.
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loudvanman
Main reason for wanting to fit this is that i keep breaking the standard screen and its getting annoying as i cant do any more testing as it breaks everytime i do a burb.

I think the shape of the glass is against me as it is cuved but from left to right and top to bottom.so its very concave to start with. thats why i am looking at putting a flatter screen infront of it.

if you look at the first picture i posted you will see the curve i'm on about.
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Kim
Dieter are right, but on the other hand take a look att some extreme cars/vans out there...

Some of them use a THICK steelplate on the outside of the glass and place it at the a-pillars, making the window even more inside the cabin.
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loudvanman
yes thanks for the help i suppose its a comprimsie.
Put the frame on the outside of the A Pillar and then the thickness of the glass with change the outside silloutte of the vehichle but then putting the glass on the inside will reduce the cabin volume .
I'll do some measurmenets this weekend and see what sort of space i have to work with.
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stany
Easier solution is : Dont turn the Volume this high anymore
[stanystats]
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loudvanman
wheres the fun in that.!!

Anyway if it wasn't for you stanny ,been so friendly and helpfull i'd probably still have my ported wall.

Ive been turning it down all season at shows just so i can still drive it home afterwards and not wait for a recovery truck to collect me and then moan about the weight when they try and get in onto the back of there tilting recovery bed.

whatever I do I need to get it finished ready for march for a juliper or two.

[ 11-23-2010, 11:33 AM: Message edited by: loudvanman ]
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loudvanman
I have done some measurements and will be able to use just two pieces as i will now be going straight across from a pillar to a pillar. this means i only have one brace/join in the centre.

Also found out that this glass has a heating element in it as well, bonus for misting windows in the winter.

I've purchased two of these window clamps to help installing them easier.





what it looks like from the outside finished.





and then from the inside.
most of the origonal view the rest is behind the sunvisor or behind the wipers at the bottom


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Fredrik Lindberg
I like this build man, just curious about the D6 amps, never heard of them are they really old or brand new?
I got two D7s myself and they look like yours?
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loudvanman
the D6 are the older amps.

They were designed to give out maximum SPL at 12V they cut out at 16.2Volts or below 9Volts. So more suited to the street classes A,B,C

The new D5 and D7 go upto 18V I believe and are designed for the super street classes/ extreme.
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Fredrik Lindberg
Quote:
Originally posted by loudvanman:
the D6 are the older amps.

They were designed to give out maximum SPL at 12V they cut out at 16.2Volts or below 9Volts. So more suited to the street classes A,B,C

The new D5 and D7 go upto 18V I believe and are designed for the super street classes/ extreme.
yup 18v max but I use one with 5 maxxima DC batteries but no burping or maximum spl type just bassrace/demos and so on, got it to shut off once at around 11V i think. Oh well carry on making "snow angels" on the windscreen and good luck with the build, perhaps i should make my own snowman, we got snow in sweden too
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