1loudyugo Show full post »
Could try playing with the port area to better control your frequency, then maybe playing with port length. Temp may be holding you back a little, May help may hurt. I believe there is more score to be had before adding more power. Never know 6in PVC could give ya .5db
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canadian no-wall
I assume that you tried adding port lenght with the box being around 9 cubes?? you need the box to be the full 13 cubes then try the port length by adding 1" then test. if theres a gain, add another inch and so on.....small changes can have a major impact on score, impedance, and sub control. Try to keep that in mind.
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Well I just found one sub had the suspension come in glued its all fixed now so hopefully with that and the 3 holes fixed and the both amps. I should be doing ok in the sol world ... So we ll c
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Originally posted by 1loudyugo:
Well after shrinking the box 5 ins at home I was able to do a 154.7. At the show. Db drag 153.4. And 152.7 tnespl 153.4. 153.3 . Box rise. From .35. To 2 ohm. Long gettin 6 k out of my 1100.1. I didn't think that wad to bad... For the first shows. The car was at now time to figure out how to get less impede rise. And my tuning fre. Down to 63 htzs. From 72 lol. Lots of work ahead. And info will be greatly. Accepted. Thanks nick and bob for the amps and every thing else you have done for.me ...
Dont waste your time chasing imp rise in the end it is what it is. The only thing you should care about is clamping power every burp. Reasoning being if it gained....WHY was it from a change made incress in power if you lost well maybe a amp gain shifted and your not getting the same power every burp.

NEVER tune your system full tilt unless you have big money to waste on recones. You will also run into issues with power being unreabible due to your voltage unless you have a ungodly amount of battery's and you don't. 2-3Db below peak spl is a good way to make a lot of test and tuning. I made it from a 151 to a 163 this way and never hurt a sub. When you make changes PLOT the results. Don't just test 1 freq. Test a few above and below your peak. KEEP NOTES you should be able to at any given time predict your numbers based on your notes from volume 1 - full tilt at freqs at or near your peak as any given time. YOu should also know what your freq does as the spl goes up and be able to adjust it according to notes. I have never seen a vehicle that has the same peak freq at any volume. As it gets louder this WILL change. You will also need to make adjustments to your port to compensate for this depending how your freq reacts with the vechile. Never say I want X freq and tune for that tune to the vehicles peak.

Get a temp gun and monitor the subs motor temp if your going to be doing a lot of testing. As the motor heats your going to see changes that may be due to normal heat. Don't try and chase temps just use them for reference when numbers are not in line. I have seen as much as .5db difference in my own NW builds simply from heat created by the subs burping repeatedly.

Your going to have to test EVERY thing in that box inside and out. Dont just assume that you need to shirk it 3 cubes or even 5 cubes test EVERY size 1 step at a time. Readjust your port every time you change the box.

With that much power your a long ways from where you should be. When I did NW i was testing in the 157 range at 4-5K total on a pair of 15's.
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