TeamMudd
hi to the forum! i've been eager to install a system in my vehicles ever since i started building audio boxes for ATV's (yes atv's)! well here's what i have so far, mind you this is on a budget, not dirt cheap, but always looking for a "deal"..

quick vehicle specs.....2000 F250 Crew Cab, sony head unit, all the rest of the stereo is stock. i usually listen to alternative rock, classic rock, and new and old country.

FIRST : i was given a sealed wedge box to fit behind the rear seat of a single cab truck. it houses 2 10" subs. well it "almost fit" behind the seat of my 2000 F250 Crew Cab. i cut it down to fit behind the rear seat, sealed up the joints, did a quick surface sanding, and i figure i would Rhino line the box (since i have a gal that was given to me). after making it fit, i'm dealing with .92 Cubic ft. (net/internal air space)per side, before the woofer magnet.

i currently have a Rockford PUNCH 60DSM sitting on the shelf ready to power something. i have not found the actual specs of this amp, but i do know that they pack a punch (pun intended) for their size, and are obviously under rated.

i have a kicker component speaker set on the shelf as well, KM620.2, yea it's a marine set, but i've head a couple in truck and i think they sound pretty good.

i have 4ga and 6ga automotive cable (thick stranded) on hand, along with 12ga speaker wire.

now for my set up "plans" i'm currently bidding on a pair of Kicker CVR 10's on ebay (2ohm DVC's) for the box, and i will be getting a second amp to power the components. if i don't win the kickers i'll be looking for something similar, maybe not the 2ohm DVC. and i'll be looking for an amp to push the components as well. so i'll have dual amps, 2 10"'s, 6" component speakers in the front doors(65rms).

now for some questions, i know i'll have to run a splitter for the amps,
1)what is a good size wire to go from the batt to the splitter?

2)from the splitter to the amps can i use the 4ga or 6ga that i have on hand?

3)IF it's not recommended to use automotive stranded wire, can i use welding cable instead of the "official" audio cable?

4)fuses? my first thought is to put a fuse in between the splitter and the amp, OR do i need one in between the batt and the splitter as well.

if any one has any thought or comments, they are more than welcome. i'm not looking for a competition system but a good sounding hard hitting (when i want it to) type system. thank for all the input, and advice!
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madmader
first off, put a fuse at the battery! trust me, if there is a short, you don't want the battery to explode! Myself, I would use 4 gauge wire. You can get 20ft of off ebay for 20 bucks.
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TeamMudd
sounds good, i just found them a few minutes ago. found some 20' red for $19.99 free shipping and found some 20' black for $15.99 free shipping.

so i should be able to run the 4ga from the batt to the block, and run it from the dist block to the amps as well right?

now for the fuses, i'll obviously have to determine what load i'll be running first right? or would say a 100amp from the batt to the dist block be a good rule of thumb? and the Punch 60 does not have a built in fuse, so i'm guessing i'll need a fuse in between the dist block and the amp, correct?
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tekk45
With 2 amps Id run 0 gauge from the battery to your distribution block then 4 gauge to your amps. Make the runs to the amps as short as possible. Use 8 gauge grounds from the amps to the ground distribution block and run 0 gauge down to your frame. Clean the frame where you will be connecting your ground cable, make your connection, then seal it so it cannot corrode. Do the same off of the battery ground. Run a piece of 0 gauge to the frame from the battery. American Bass 0 gauge ring terminals work perfectly and are sold as a set. They also have distribution blocks with 0 gauge in, 2 4 gauge out. I would use a circuit breaker(200amp) on the 0 gauge power wire, at the battery. You can connect to both sides of the breaker using 0 gauge ring terminals. Make sure to get the ones with set screws. 0 gauge welding cable will be sufficient for what your doing. This setup will help make sure your amps are not starved for voltage. If you truely want good bass do a blow though setup with 2 12's or 15's. If not pick a sub optimized for very small box volume. Maybe a Pioneer shallow mount 12.

Team Neo - Eric
Americanbassusa.com
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D-Bass
eric, why are you suggesting to use ring terminals with set screws?
and why use 4ga power from the distro to the amps, but then 8ga from the amps to the other distro?
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tekk45
Sorry 4 gauge from and to distribution blocks for amps. And ring terminals to connect the grounds to the frame/chassis(nut and bolt). Something like these.

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-400-Crimpless-Ring-Terminals/dp/B000CIGB3K
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D-Bass
word
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TeamMudd
sorry for the late reply guys.....

thanks for the info! i haven't had a chance to get much more done than the box cut down and dyna-glassed up, sanded and ready for me to rhino line it. been slap busy here lately!

a friend of mine has some left over dynamat, so i'll be putting that behind the seat on the back of the cab where i trimmed the factory plastic cover.

i found a pair of kicker CVT 10's for $150 (09 models new in box) with a single 2ohm coil. they will fit the box and are with in the specs i need (.8-3.0cu/ft requirement). i figure i could either 1) wire the subs for a 4ohm mono, OR 2) run each sub to each channel on the amp then i would have a 2ohm load per channel.

i have no birth certificate for the amp, but i've read a few other places that the 60DSM's are about 250-300rms in 4ohm mono. don't know how far off those numbers might be, it's just what i've read...... i've also read where the old school RF's can handle 2ohm mono with good cooling ventilation....

but i'll probably stick with either a 4ohm mono, or the 2ohm x 2, i'm not looking at wanting to push it beyond the threshold or go to the extreme.
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tekk45
I would run it with a 2 ohm load per channel. Make sure the input to the amp is mono. The subs can only be wired to 4 ohms(series) or 1 ohm(parallel). The amp should be more efficeint unbridged and at 2 ohms per channel.
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TeamMudd
sounds like a plan! i've located some decent priced cable, got a good game plan..... just gotta get it all put into place!
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tijae
if it was me i do 2 sundown nightshade v2 10s and a sundown 2000d
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Nightshade
Quote:
Originally posted by tijae:
if it was me i do 2 sundown nightshade v2 10s and a sundown 2000d
Those subs are anything but shallow. He needs a shallower type sub and the Nightshade V2 is a little over 10" deep. So I would say that's a no go on them. He maybe able to work with an sa10, but they are still around 6" deep so I would bet they are too much sub still. If he did like Eric suggested and went with a blowthrough then the sky's the limit on what he'd be able to do. If it were me that's what I'd do or just ditch the back seat and build the enclosure there to look like it belongs.
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TeamMudd
hey guys, sorry i haven't posted in a while, been slap tied up running like a rat on speed.....

as for an update, i can't give one. i haven't had a chance to do much with the truck or the box. but as far as ditching the back seat, man i can't do that.... i have 4 kids that i haul around sometimes in the crew cab. now that my schedule has calmed down some, and i got new tires on my Excursion, i can get back to my F250. i'm going to try and rhino line the box here in the next week or so! at least get one step closer, lol.

thanks again for the helpful hints guys!!
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