Boomn
I'm going to be building a SS 1-2 vehicle with 2 PPI PC 18ds drivers in a wall going into a 2004 Suzuki Swift+. Can anyone shed some light for me on what size the port opening should be? I realize box volume is a factor, with that being said I'm hoping between 15-18 cubes, and tuned to 60 - 65 hz. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
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Team Psycho Broken
Between 700-800sq to start would be a safe bet
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Boomn
can I ask how you came up with those numbers? do you have experience with the PPI pc 18ds drivers?
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Team Psycho Broken
No but I have experience in building for super street. Build the wall as large as you can so in your case 18 cubes, if you could go larger (20 cubes I would).... start with more than enough port (800sq) and start tuning.
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Boomn
thank-you for the info you have provided, seeing as you are an experienced Super Street builder here is another question for you. In order for me to get the maximum volume out of my car (20 cubes hopefully) the enclosure will have to contour the cars interior, so heres my concern when the enclosure is constructed it will not be a typical 6 sided enclosure (top,bottom,baffle,2 sides and back) it will be odd shaped. Will this cause any db loss? taking in consideration that the enclosure will be internally rounded, resined, so forth and so forth.
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Team Psycho Broken
No, you want the subs as close to the passenger side b pillar as possible and the port as close to the driver side b pillar as possible Just make sure that you make the enclosure strong. I would suggest a steel cage and attatch birch plywood to that. If you cant do steel you can use 2x4's but if you can do steel its is by far your best bet. Like I said make sure you get those subs as far over as you can. Also your port should only be as deep as the baffle's thickness. Recess the subs into the first layer of the baffle and flare the back opening behind the subs over the next layers.
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Boomn
I have read in other posts on this forum about the flaring of the back opening, do you use pvc pipe for this application and cut accordingly?
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Team Psycho Broken
stagger the cuts then resin, fiberglass, bondo, sand, repeat. lol. Also make sure you recess the subs so you can get the wall as close to flush with the pillar as possible without the surround of the sub going past
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mhart
Everything Team Psycho told you is what to do, make everything big and then shrink it until you peak, and what he said about the port is correct, make the thickness of the baffle be the port, i have seen this with the no-wall box i've been messing with, as soon as i add an internal length of port the tuning will go down but so does the score.
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Boomn
Team Psycho Broken thank-you, mhart thank-you
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Team Psycho Broken
Your welcome, When you get to tuning your going to want to make a big round over on the end of teh baffle in the port. I use pvc pipe and seal it with tape and back it up with blocks of wood and screw it in until your tuning is done then tape it up good and drill a hole and fill the pipe with a hot batch of resin. it will give you a nice gain
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Boomn
excellent excellent excellent, once the build happens I will e-mail you pics in progress and send you a shot of the db on termlab, unforunately the build won't happen until Feb 2012 (I've got access to a heated garage for a month at that time) so I'm going to utiize my time getting supply's and getting the required info as you have given me. This is the excitement I've been waiting for this build is going to worth the effort.
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Team Psycho Broken
Quote:
Originally posted by Boomn:
excellent excellent excellent, once the build happens I will e-mail you pics in progress and send you a shot of the db on termlab, unforunately the build won't happen until Feb 2012 (I've got access to a heated garage for a month at that time) so I'm going to utiize my time getting supply's and getting the required info as you have given me. This is the excitement I've been waiting for this build is going to worth the effort.
sounds great! looking forward to seeing the progress!
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